“Trend” is broad concept that is difficult for many of us to approach definitively. Some are localized to a group of friends, some are localized to a city, and some exist purely through electronic media and, as a result, find a presence on the international stage. Many people say that trends and conformity are bad, yet this critique alone is not enough. What specific kind of conformity is bad? What is a “trend”?
These are the questions with which I’m about to apply to fashion, at least as it exists in America. When you walk into a store, do you think about how those designs were conceived? Or where that material came from? Maybe some of fashion’s biggest tropes meant something different before sold on the corporate level. An obvious example is the native iconography you see in a lot of places these days (e.g. Urban Outfitters). Those designs meant something completely different to a marginalized and colonized group of people. They may seem quaint and cute to the everyday consumer who is trying to “keep up” with what is trending, but before the commercialized attention these designs were intimate symbols of meaning. Perhaps, then, does this how mainstream, commercialized fashion works all the time? Stealing designs from a much more localized landscape of meaning and turning them into the middle-class American closet-filler? Yes, that is my theory. Mainstream and high fashion “gets inspired” by taking concentrated localized trends and turning them into a wide-scale national trend, and in the process warps the original meaning of the trend.
Now, one may immediately wonder what the difference is between a localized trend and a national/international trend which relies on media to survive. (Warning: sociological/philosophical ideas up ahead). I’m going to start at the smallest level. Say there are two young girls who are friends, each of them with their own set of personal mannerisms. One twiddles her thumbs when she’s bored and the other eats a peppermint before tests. As they spend more time together, each start to take the mannerisms of the other without realizing it. Psychologically, this may be perceived as a way for human beings to connect with one another subconsciously. It’s like they’re putting themselves in the other’s shoes in a very small way. They’re not copying each other; in a sense, they’re bonding. Another example may be the notion of inside jokes. Only a small number of people find special meaning in a particular game or activity, and it is this special meaning which connects them. I’m using very relatable examples to the everyday American, but it’s not hard to take this idea and apply to certain cultural behaviors. Even though those behaviors are embedded in a completely different culture and place, they are shared amongst those people. Loosely speaking, these can all be categorized as localized trends.
American society is widespread, and has put in place certain systems which hold together the country on such a large scale. We have TVs, radios, cell phones, etc. We have corporations which provide the exact same product to three hundred million people. On a superficial level, this doesn’t seem so bad. Everyone’s needs are being met, right? The only problem is that, as an American citizen and consumer of corporate product, you don’t actually know anything about the products you’re consuming. You didn’t accrue the materials to make them, you didn’t put the creative thought into designing them… you didn’t do anything for them except fork over some magical pieces of paper so you can have them. They don’t have any special value that connects you to others or even to yourself. It’s value is $19.99, and that’s it.
Before you get ahead of me, reader, I’d like to say a couple things. We live in this society, whether we like it or not. We didn’t choose to be born into this physical landscape people around us call “America.” And because of this, many people simply do not have access to the right information in order to become informed, nor do they have the financial security to reject living off of certain corporate product. I understand some people cannot afford to live any other way (that’s a whole another bag of problems I don’t want to get into right now).
So, back to the original topic, where do fashion trends come from? I’m asking this question both to myself and to others because, I’ll admit, stores which make big bank off of selling “progressive” styles really gets under my skin. I really do not like places like Urban Outfitters and Free People. Seriously… the name of the store is “Free People.” How can someone not see how the corporation is manipulating people’s sense of values? Let me be clear: you do not need to dress in a certain way to be progressive and liberal.
Excuse my ill-tempered words — back to the point. I’m about to deconstruct specific fashion trends right here.
Boho/Hippie
I’ve noticed the increasing popularity of “boho” or “boho-chic.” These harken back to the original term “bohemian,” which was a kind of sub-culture popularized in Greenwich Village in the 1920s and known for consisting of, usually, artistic types.* The long flowing, but perhaps tattered, skirts, the earthy colors, and the mix of hippie style influences. You know what I’m talking about. Companies which largely sport this style are Urban Outfitters and Free People. Their clothing supposedly makes a customer look free-spirited, artistic, and that he or she belongs to a lower tax bracket (very deceptive, since those stores are pretty pricey).* One of the trends of the 1960s hippies was to borrow styles from more “primitive” peoples.* This is obviously being done today. I walked into an Old Navy the other day and saw earrings meant to imitate Chinese currency (the coins with the holes, you know). I don’t claim to know what that trend was like back in the 1960s (I don’t have the age to support such a claim), but I can voice my opinion in saying that I think these kinds of trends are heavily misguided. How would you like it if the next big thing was to wear Star of David earrings? How is that any different from wearing imitation Chinese coins? Or Native American designs? Why would you wear these things? These things are meaning to other groups of people or cultures, and just because a corporation decides to make bank on the current exoticism sensation (or whatever you’d like to call it), does it mean it’s ethically okay. Being half Filipina, if I saw a store selling shirts with Tagalog phrases on them, I would so disheartened. Me, the half-white, half-Filipina girl who has always struggled to come to terms with her lack of language, with her racially, politically, and socially confusing existence, would see white people buying up this hypothetical new trend… I would be pretty upset. My family’s culture is not for sale. And yet, people get tattoos of Chinese characters because it seems “exotic” and “full of mystery.”
However, people aren’t at complete fault for this. Many are at ignorance at where some of this merchandise comes from, and that’s simply by virtue of the merchandise being a part of the larger capitalist picture. Corporations don’t care what’s right and wrong to people; they care about what sells. From their merchandise, to their commercials, they’re trying to get money out of you. They’re going to sell whatever they feel will sell, which means they’re going to take notice of mainstream trends that have been blown out of proportion to mean nothing what it meant before. In the end, each person’s moral responsibility is to become aware of what was the process and consequences involved in the making of corporate product, or any business product honestly.
Punk
A couple years ago, I remember stumbling upon the Jimmy Choo website and saw some of their merchandise decked out with punk-esque studs. I knew studs were affiliated with punk and goth trends (i.e. Hot Topic), but that’s about it. Though I’m less familiar with punk, it took only one google search to confirm my suspicions. Punk fashion styles were generally a result of an anti-fashion movement in the 1970s, which consisted of people buying clothing from thrift stores and re-appropriating the material in new but rugged ways.* Due to the aggressive statement-styles of the punk movement, such things as studs and piercings were utilized to shock conventional society.
If someone were to dress punk today, no one would be shocked, assume you have purpose, nor assume you were poor or low-class. It takes a decent budget to buy some of the things that would constitute being a “punk” today.
Vintage
Shopping at vintage and thrift shops is very in-vogue these days, so much that it’s gotten to the point where certain stores (again, e.g. Urban Outfitters) will design their merchandise in imitation of retro or vintage styles. Now, people have the commercial luxury of buying vintage without actually buying vintage. Why has vintage and second-hand become a modern trend? I’m not googling it this time because I feel relatively confident in my educated guess. Buying second-hand isn’t something new. As mentioned above, the original hippie and punk movements largely included obtaining second-hand clothing. As I understand it, shopping at thrift and vintage stores has a greater ethical cause behind it for many people. By doing this, you’re recycling used clothes that were locally obtained as opposed to being dumped into landfills; plus, you’re not giving your money to large corporations which thrive off of selling shady ideas, and all-around other shady practices as well. Inadvertently, I suppose it might be a good thing that vintage is a trend since more people will, though unaware of themselves, stumble into ethical practices (kinda like with the organic hype, kinda).
Considering the overwhelming amount of things people ought to be educated about or aware of, I wouldn’t fault people for ignorance alone. We live in a crazy society in which so many things, especially via media, are thrown in our faces, and it’s up to us to make sense of it all. It’s difficult to sort through the muck, I know. There’s only so much some people can do. I , too, still have much more to educate myself about. If there’s a lesson to take away from this, I suppose it’s to question the everyday things in your life that you didn’t make for yourself. You didn’t grow the carrots on your dinner plate (well, maybe you did), you didn’t make your new summer dresses (if you did, that’s pretty impressive), and you certainly didn’t make your cell phone nor accrued the material to make it (and that one is definitely true for everyone). If you’re genuinely open-minded about such questions, you’ll be ready to act accordingly when you discover the answer.
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Sources (listed in the order as used)
*http://www.nbol-19.org/view_doc.php?index=74
*http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bohemian_style
*http://www.fashion-era.com/punks_fashion_history1.htm